The United States counts 63 national parks, of which 9 are located in the state of California – more than in any other state. The initial plan was to make a loop starting from San Francisco, driving east towards the Grand Canyon, heading south west to San Diego and then to drive up along the west coast back to San Francisco. Unfortunately, the Tioga Pass was closed in winter (which caused a 6 hour detour crossing the north of Sierra Nevada) and Antelope National Park (famous for light beams illuminating curvy rock faces inside cave like canyons) was booked out.
San Francisco
I had previously only learned about San Francisco’s steep streets, Alcatraz, Fisherman’s Wharf and the Golden Gate Bridge through TV shows and video games (GTA). So it was quite fun to see what it was actually like in reality. Although upon entering “the city”, a barrage of stories hurled towards my ears from taxi drivers and other residents around the diminishing safety and increase of homelessness, especially since COVID. The homelessness was self-evident and made quite a contrast against my first sighting of a Waymo car picking up a customer without a human driver.
The car rental company had handed over a van that had a built-in kitchen and a living room (that had also functioned as a bed), which also made it pretty big and difficult to see from. This, in combination with night time, heavy rain, driving on the other side of the road, no phone holder, highly dynamic traffic and 4 lanes turning 6 lanes turning 3 lanes turning 7 lanes made it a pretty stressful first encounter with the American road system.
So, the first thing to do was to find a place to stay the night. After having been further scared to death by locals about what could happen while parked in the city, Google found a parking lot at the north end of the Golden Gate Bridge where it would be free to stay. It had free toilets (subject of a local graffiti art project) and an ongoing rotation of cars stopping by all eager to contribute to a complementary party atmosphere.
In the morning, a conveniently located hotdog stand cleverly made $10 USD a piece out of any chump who hadn’t prepared breakfast for themselves. However, Yosemite National Park was calling, rain or no rain (spoiler alert: rain).
Yosemite National Park
Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1984, Yosemite knows how to impress. Vertical granite walls reaching more than 2500 m lean over lush valleys filled with streams and waterfalls.
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Granitic Tree Line
United States (US)
Tioga Pass turned out to be closed, which meant a 6 hour detour to get to the other side. Not long after, I heard a snap when I tried to shift the gear from parking into reverse while parked in front of a tiny supermarket in the small town of Mokelumni Hill. Some plastic garment had broken off and it had to be towed to the mechanic the next day. Luckily the supermarket had a bathroom. Next, crossing the Nevada Sierra went first from snow and frozen lakes to enormously wide grass plains.
Death Valley
Temperatures as high as 54 °C (129.2 °F) make Death Valley the hottest place on earth during summer times. The cracked soil, colourful mountains and endless salt flats make it also one of the most visually striking.
Salsberry Pass
The scenic views from Death Valley don’t recede driving through the Salsberry pass between Badwater and Shoshone, on the way to Las Vegas.
Zion National Park
Located in the state of Utah, Zion National Park sounds like it has been named after a planet in a galaxy far, far away. However, its original name, Mukuntuweap, was apparently too difficult to pronounce. Arguably, Angels Landing is the best view of the park however a permit is required to make it to the final stretch. Ensure to get one in advance because there is a high chance that when you finally get to the foot of this final stretch, you will regret not getting one (yes, speaking from experience).
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Zion Square
United States (US)
The Grand Canyon
For about the last 5-6 million years the Colorado River in Arizona has been carrying sand, gravel and rocks carving a nice little canyon, exposing rocks that are close to 1840 million years old.
Los Angeles
A short stopover in America’s film and television industry’s centre reminded me of some of the classics of another time (such as Full House and Baywatch).
Coastal San Diego
Located a bit further south from Los Angeles, San Diego feels more laid back compared to LA and has some unique and active wildlife along its coast.
New York
With a population of over 8.3 million, New York is composed of five boroughs: Brooklyn, the Bronx, Manhattan, Queens and Staten Island. The city that “never sleeps” is as dynamic and iconic as it gets.
It’s not just the sights in the national parks. The food, cities, ambitions, distances, everything is grand. If there’s one thing that I’ve learned after nearly three weeks on the road in the USA, is that I have barely scratched the surface of this massive and diverse country. Until we meet again, and I’m sure we will, USA.